Longines Classic 1915 Equestrian Pocket Watch

Longines, a famous Swiss watch manufacturer, presents Longines Classic Replica Series 1911 Equestrian Pocket Watch (LonginesEquestrianPocketWatchHorsesTrio1911). This limited and numbered pocket watch has an 18K rose gold case, which demonstrates Longines’ enthusiasm for equestrian sports. The watch’s caseback is engraved with three horses, inspired by a metal pocket watch with a Lépine movement. This classic is now in the Longines Saint-Imier Watch Museum.

  Longines’ passion for equestrian sports dates back more than a century. As early as 1878, the brand had created a chronograph pocket watch engraved with the image of the jockey and his mount. The Longines Classic Replica 1911 Equestrian Pocket Watch was inspired by a pocket watch that was collected in the Longines Watch Museum. The original timepiece was born in 1911. Just a year later, in 1912, the brand became a partner of equestrian obstacle course for the first time, and thus launched a long history of Longines’ participation in various famous flat horse races and obstacle course.

  This 18K rose gold pocket watch is engraved with three horses in the bottom case. Three magnificent horse heads rushed out in the delicate leaf decoration background, and the leaf pattern in the background further extended. As unusually limited pocket watches, each is individually numbered.

  This pocket watch has a diameter of 48.20 mm and is equipped with a Longines exclusive L878.4 manual winding movement. Its white dial is decorated with large black lacquered Arabic numerals and minute markers. The elegant ‘Breguet’ blue-steel hands indicate hours and minutes, and a small seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Pocket watch sides and hanging rings are carefully decorated according to its prototype pocket watch.
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Unique Feminine Tasting Breguet Classic 8788 Rose Gold Ladies Watch

When talking about Breguet’s Classique classic series watches, most people will think of a thin case with a simple dial and blue steel Breguet hands. And Breguet’s classic series is not limited to men’s watches, Breguet’s classic women’s watches are more than just setting some precious stones on their classic men’s watches. Today, the Watch House brings you a Breguet classic series ladies watch, the official model: 8788BR / 29/986 / DD00.

   This watch is no different from Breguet’s 7788BR / 29 / 9V6 / DD00 in appearance. The only difference is that the diameter of the case is reduced to 36 mm. The diamond, weighing approximately 0.768 carats, shines brightly in its restraint.

Case diameter 36 mm

    This watch case is made of 18k rose gold, the case diameter is 36 mm, the thickness is 10.2 mm, small and slim. The clean ‘big fire’ white enamel dial, blue steel hands and Breguet moon phases continue Breguet’s unique style. Equipped with Breguet Cal. 591DRL automatic movement.

18k Rose Gear Crown

   The 18k rose gear crown is simple and exquisite, which makes the case more elegant. The top of the polished crown is embossed with the Breguet brand logo.

Brown alligator strap

   Brown alligator leather strap with neat and beautiful texture and brown stitching for fine workmanship.

9 o’clock position with moon phase adjustment button

   The side of the 10.2 mm case is decorated with Breguet’s usual and classic coin pattern, which is highly recognizable. At 9 o’clock, there is a button for adjusting the moon phase, which needs to be adjusted with special tools. The bezel on the bevel is inlaid with a ring of fine diamonds, and 80 diamonds emit a bright light under the light.

Buckle also made of rose gold

   The buckle is also made of rose gold, with a foldable design that is simple and comfortable to wear. The polished buckle is engraved with the Breguet brand logo.

Welded diamond lugs with rounded corners

   Breguet’s classic-style welded rounded lugs are small and cute. The delicate polishing reveals the unique luster of rose gold. It is comfortable to wear and fastens the strap with screws. The front of each lug is also set with 4 fine diamonds.

White ‘Big Fire’ Enamel Dial

   The white ‘big fire’ enamel dial has an elegant and simple layout and clear display. Breguet-style hollow eccentric ‘moon-shaped’ blue steel hands indicate hour, minute and second information, minute scales are replaced by small stars, and every five minutes scale is also decorated with stylish iris flowers. At 12 o’clock, there is a moon phase display window, and the ‘smiley’ moon made of rose gold and the stars on both sides are in the blue night sky. It also divides the moon phase cycle into 29 half spaces, which can clearly understand the number of days remaining from the next profit and loss. The power reserve indicator is set at three o’clock on the dial and is indicated by a blue steel arrow to provide a 38-hour power reserve.

Cal.591DRL self-winding movement

   The Breguet Cal.591DRL self-winding movement is only 3.02 mm thick and consists of 217 parts. The movement uses a silicon escapement and balance spring, which is lightweight, does not require lubrication and is not affected by magnetic interference, ensuring accurate timekeeping performance. The movement is finished in Geneva and fish scale engraved motifs, with a double barrel.

Summary: The ‘Big Fire’ enamel dial is paired with unique time-marking symbols, so there is no need to talk about Breguet. The unique moon phase display also adds a unique elegance to this watch. Breguet blue-steel hands with hollowed-out ‘moon-shaped’ needlepoints, welded lugs, and a coin pattern on the outer edge of the case, each detail exudes classic tradition. Such a watch is worn on the wrist of a woman, after all, it presents a unique and unique charm. (Picture / text watch home Dong Hang)

Snowflake Needle Let Tudor Watch Out Of Rolex’s Shadow

1969 was a crucial year in the history of watchmaking. This year, the successful landing of humans on the moon made the OMEGA Speedmaster a symbol; this year, we ushered in the first automatic chronograph; this year, Tudor introduced the now famous snowflake hand ( SnowflakeHands).

   Although watch enthusiasts have different opinions on this design, after 50 years of baptism, the Tudor snowflake hand has become a signature feature of the brand’s sports timepieces, and has gained many loyal fans. To commemorate the fiftieth anniversary of the birth of the Tudor snowflake needle, in this article we will review its origin story, military origin, and its profound impact on the brand.

Tudor product catalog from 1969 to 1970, including the first watch model with snowflake hands

Origin story

 

 

1954 Tudor OysterPrinceSubmariner Ref.7922

   The first generation of the Tudor OysterPrinceSubmariner was born in 1954, one year after the launch of the Submariner (submarine) by sister brand Rolex. The main difference between the Tudor Ref.7922 and the Rolex Submariner is that the former is equipped with an ETA movement, but the two sides have many similarities, including the case design, screw-in crown, black diving bezel and Mercedes. pointer.

1969 Tudor OysterPrinceSubmarinerRef.7021 watch with snowflake hands and red and black alternate date display

   In 1969, the second-generation Tudor watch OysterPrinceSubmariner entered the stage of history. The new watch features unusual snowflake hands and square hour markers and is available to consumers in two models: Ref. 7016 which only displays the time and Ref. 7021 which additionally displays the date. This is the first step towards a completely new design for Tudor.

1973 Tudor OysterPrinceSubmariner Ref. 7021 Advertising

Military origin

   The new dial design not only distinguishes Tudor from Rolex, but also brings functional upgrades to diving users. Although Tudor officially claims that the brand’s largest customer, the Marine Nationale, has only selected existing models from the product catalog, many collectors speculate that the French Navy has worked more closely with Tudor to help develop unique dial designs .

Tudor OysterPrinceSubmariner ‘MarineNationale’ Watch

   The resulting angular hands and square hour markers can help divers to distinguish more quickly. At the same time, the hands and time scales expand the surface area and coat more fluorescent materials, so they can provide better readability in dark environments.

Tudor OysterPrinceSubmariner ‘MarineNationale’ Watch

   Until the mid-2000s, the Tudor OysterPrinceSubmariner watch has been widely used by French Navy divers. We can also see it on the wrists of navy divers in the United States, Canada and Italy.

Forever vitality

   Because the look looks like a partial snowflake, collectors in the 1990s gave the pointer a ‘snowflake needle’ nickname. Later, the name was officially adopted by Tudor watches and is still in use today.

Snowflake hour hand style

   The advent of the OysterPrinceSubmariner watch represents an important step for Tudor as an independent brand. With the release of the new watch, Tudor’s unique pointer and hour design, and the new shield logo (replacing the original rose logo) debut. All these design differences bring a new identity to the brand and also mark the true separation of Tudor and Rolex.

Biwan Snowflake Hour Hand

Carry on

 

Tudor collar submersible snowflake hour and second hands

Tudor Collar Submersible Snowflake Needle Fluorescent Effect

   Just as the Mercedes hands are the hallmark of Rolex diving watches, the snowflake hands are also the most recognizable design feature of Tudor watches. Today, the early OysterPrinceSubmariner watch is loved by collectors, and the unique pointer and hour marker design has also been inherited and carried forward by the submersible and Biwan models.

Biwan Chronograph Snowflake Hour Hand

Green Bay Greenwich 24-Hour Snowflake Hand

   The iconic snowflake needle was originally a functional upgrade for navy divers, but it finally helped Tudor get out of Rolex’s shadow and become a world-renowned watchmaking brand that is equally popular but more affordable. (Photo / text watch home compiled by Xu Chaoyang)

Precision Is Not A Dream Past And Present Of The Balance Spring (1)

An element with a mass of only a few grams converts the clock from a mechanical decoration to a scientific instrument. The time measurement is accurate enough to help navigators explore the ocean, and then bring humans into space. The balance wheel The story of Balance Spring / Hairspring is a wonderful adventure.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon ball tourbillon assembly

   At the beginning of chaos, there was only darkness and emptiness in the heavens and the earth; the creation of watchmaking, the vital coil spring had not yet emerged. As early as the Renaissance, in order to more or less regulate the rate of clockwork, watchmakers were exhausted, and their silks turned gray. At that time, most of the pocket watches were hanging around the neck, or wrapped around the waist, and were rarely at rest. The oscillator was constantly disturbed, so the accuracy of the travel time was really dare not be complimented. The hairspring is born from bristles, and the expression ‘thin as hair’ is not exaggerated. Before the invention of this exquisite metal element (shaped like the mainspring of an Archimedes spiral), when the balance wheel completed half-cycle oscillation, it was reset by virtue of the elastic swing of the bristles. This is an often overlooked fact. Therefore, the early ‘Verge Escapement’ relied on organic matter to maintain oscillations: this is inevitably disturbing, because small changes in atmospheric humidity are enough to affect the operation of the mechanism. The so-called loss is thousands of miles.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon ball tourbillon assembly

Revolutionary innovation
   This mechanism of mixed metal and organic hair is neither mature nor practical, but it has successfully stirred the interest of scientists and scholars in the seventeenth century (called the ‘golden age’ by historians). Time itself is meaningless, and history becomes extraordinary with the name of a great man. Let us remember those who learned the clock operation in advance: Galileo, Newton, Huygens, Abbot Jean de Hautefeuille, and the British mathematician and physicist Robert Hook, etc. The normativity of the clock. Respecting the inspiration of prestige, the desire to stay famous, in the 1630s, scientists began to seek ways to regulate the clock rate, and then benefit all portable timing instruments.
   This is a daunting challenge, comparable to finding stones and perpetual motion for philosophers. Initially, the astronomer Galileo discovered the isochronism of the pendulum through observation, and based on this he devised a (though imperfect) machine. An alternative to the clock appeared in 1659. Dutch mathematician and astronomer Christian Huygens suspended the pendulum from a thread and used a non-rigid connection to the escapement. This raises a difficult question: how to ensure the accurate timing of the clock? In 1660, Blaise Pascal (inventor of the mechanical calculator) proposed his solution to the irregular operation of the balance wheel. Blaise Pascal recommends using a flat hairspring with a fiber ratio of human hair and connecting it to the adjustment balance to prevent the clock from losing its balance when it is slightly shocked or suddenly moved. The watchmakers should have grasped this idea; however, it was forgotten in an unknown corner.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon ball tourbillon assembly

Controversial patent
   It was widely agreed that on January 23, 1675, Christian Huygens was identified as the inventor of the hairspring. This slim spiral spring changed the rules of the game and improved the accuracy of the clock by an order of magnitude. However, the ownership of the invention is still controversial and has triggered the first real debate in the watchmaking industry. Christian Huygens sent an encrypted letter to the secretary of the Royal Society of London, explaining briefly the improvement of the hairspring, and was officially declared ‘inventor of the balance spring’ (the inventor of the balance spring). The move immediately sparked protests from other scholars and renowned watchmakers. Abbot Jean de Hautefeuille (aged 28) claims to have conceptualized this principle long before Huygens. And IsaacThuret (Huygens commissioned him to make a prototype clock with a hairspring) immediately provided Colbert with a second sample, but this time in his own name. The talented inventor Robert Hook set aside silence and stated that as early as 1665, he had proposed the idea of ​​assembling a clock with a thin spiral spring, and had drawn proof drawings.
   There is no doubt that Huygens benefited from Hook’s research, the former borrowed the conclusions of the latter to advance his theory. But it should be noted that, as a famous scientist, Huygens also proposed the wave theory of light and invented an element. This element, combined with a freestyle escapement (pawl or lever), transforms the clock from a mechanical decoration to a scientific instrument. In a short period of time, clocks that had not been equipped with hairsprings before were renewed. Once upon a time, the seventeenth-century clocks had a pool of stagnant water that has not changed since ancient times; as if overnight, they suddenly became reliable measuring instruments with a daily error of only 5 minutes.
gossamer
Date: January 23, 1675
Inventor: Dutch Christian Huygens
Purpose: Make the clock more accurate
Mass: less than 0.05 g
Application: Isochronism of balance oscillation
Result: constant balance amplitude and accurate clock timing

Precision is not a dream, the past and present of the balance spring (2)

Precision is not a dream, the past and present of the balance spring (3)